Different Types of Basic Weaves Structures
Basic Weave Structures:
Weave is the interlacing pattern warp and weft yarns, in order to produce a woven fabric. Weave structures is the design by which fabric is produced. Fabric are manufactured in wide varieties and design. The great variety of weaves found in the textiles of today are modifications of a few fundamental weaves invented in the earliest times. The basic weaves are plain, twill, and satin. All the others are derivatives of these basic weaves or their combination. In this article I will discuss about different types of basic weaves structures and their names.
Different Types Of Weaves and Their Names:
Plain Weave:
Plain is the simplest weave, in which warp and weft threads interlace in alternate manner (as shown in Figure-2), giving maximum number of interlacements. This maximum interlacement imparts firmness and stability to the structure. In trade, the special names like broadcloth, taffeta, shantung, poplin, calico, tabby, and alpaca are applied to plain weave. At least two ends and two picks are required to weave its basic unit. A minimum of two heald frames are required for this weave, but more than two (multiple of basic weave) heald frames can be used to weave this construction. It is used in cambric, muslin, blanket, canvas, dhothi, saree, shirting, suiting, etc.
Plain weaves are basically three types. They are:
Warp ribs are a modified form of plain weave. It has 1/1 interlacements in the filling direction, which differs from the simple plain weaves. This modified interlacement results in the formation of cords, ridges, or texture across the warp direction of the fabric. These cords or ridges are formed due to the grouping of the filling yarns. The repeat of warp rib is always on two warp yarns. The first warp yarn follows the formula, while the second warp yarn is in the opposite direction of the first one. It requires two heald frames at least, but multiple of these can also be employed. The number of weft yarns in a repeat unit of this weave is equal to the sum of the digits in formula of warp rib. For example, 2/2 warp rib requires 2 warp yarns and 4 weft yarns. Design of the above-stated warp rib is shown in Figure-3. Warp rib is also known as ottoman.
Warp rib are two types:
Weft ribs are another modified form of plain weaves. It has 1/1 interlacements in the warp direction, which differs from the simple plain weaves. This modified interlacement results in the formation of cords, ridges, or texture across the weft direction of the fabric. These cords or ridges are formed due to the grouping of the warp yarns. The repeat of weft rib is always on two weft yarns. The first weft yarn follows the formula, while the second weft yarn is in the opposite direction of the first one. It requires two heald frames at least, but multiple of these can also be employed. The number of warp yarns in a repeat unit of this weave is equal to the sum of the digits in formula of warp rib. For example, 2/2 weft rib requires 2 weft yarns and 4 warp yarns. Design of the above-stated warp rib is shown in Figure-4. Weft rib is also known as half panama.
Weft rib are two types:
This type of weave is constructed by extending the plain weave in warp and weft directions at the same time so that two or more threads work alike in both directions. In this weave, the same size of squares appear on both sides of the fabric showing the same number of warp and weft yarns on front and back of the fabric. Matt weave is also commercially known as basket, hopsack, or full panama. This weave requires a minimum of two heald frames. Design of the 2/2 matt weave is shown in Figure-5. The matt weaves can be extended further to give more prominence but restricted due to loose structure and modified in several ways. In matt weave, the warp ends that work alike tends to twist around each other. To avoid this twisting of the yarns, warp ends that work alike are drawn from different slits of the reed.
Matt weave are three types:
Twill weave is another basic weave which is well known for its diagonal line formation in the fabric due to its interlacing pattern. This weave and its derivatives are used for the ornamental purposes. Twill has closer setting of yarns due to less interlacement imparting greater weight and good drape as compared to the plain weave. In simple twill, the outward and upward movement of the interlacing pattern is always one that imparts a diagonal line to this design. The direction of the propagation of twill line classifies twill into right-hand or left-hand twill. Twill weaves find a wide range of application such as drill cloth, khakhi uniforms, denim cloth, blankets, shirtings, hangings and soft furnishings.
There are various types of twill weave:
Satin/sateen is a basic weave that does not have any regular pattern like twill. The surface of the fabric is either warp or weft faced. Satin is warp faced, which means that all the surface of the fabric will show the warp threads except for the one thread interlacement with other series of yarn. If it is weft faced, then it will be known as sateen, which means that fabric surface will show the weft threads mostly. The unique in this weave is the single interlacement of warp thread and weft thread in a single repeating unit. These weaves have the least interlacement points among the basic weaves. Due to this reason, it gives the surface of fabric more luster and smoothness. Along with these properties, more close packing of the threads is possible, which gives the maximum achievable cover factor in this weave. With this weave it is possible to use a cotton warp and silk filling, having most of the silk appear on the surface of the fabric.
Honey Comb Weave:
This name is given to this weave due to its honey bee web-like structure. It makes ridges and hollow structures which finally give a cell-like appearance. In this weave, both warp and weft threads move freely on both sides, which coupled with rough structure. The fabric made by this weave has longer float all over the fabric. Due to this reason, it is radially absorbent of moisture. This property made these weaves useful for towels, bed covers, and quilts. This weave is further divided into three types which are explained below. Most commonly, these weaves are constructed on repeats which are multiple of four in ends and picks.
Honey comb weave are three types:
This weave is largely used for cotton towel and linen cloth. It has longer floats in two quadrants, which make them more moisture absorbent so employed in towels. This weave is combination of longer floats of symmetric weaves in two quadrants and plain weaves in the remaining two quadrants. Plain weave gives firmness to the structure, while longer float weave increases the absorbency of fabric, making it suitable for the above-stated purpose. Special draft is employed for this weave. The draft is arranged in such a way that odd ends are drawn in two front heald frames and the even threads are drawn from back two heald frames. The purpose of this special draft is to weave plain fabric without redrawing of beam. For this purpose, heald frame one and two are coupled together, and heald frames three and four are coupled together. Sometimes, longer float symmetric weaves are used in combination of plain weaves in huck a back weave, which is also termed as honey comb huck a back weaves. Examples of this weave is shown in Figure-9.
Crepe Weave:
Crepe weave refers to those weaves that do not have any specific pattern. These weaves may contain a little bit appearance of twills, but they do not have the prominence. They make small patterns or minute spots and seed-like appearance all over the fabric surface. These weaves may be used separately or in combination with other weaves. Crepe weaves are frequently employed in making the ground of the figured fabrics. In simple words, crepe weave is used to make a rough appearance. If we make crepe weaves with crepe yarns, this combination will give more remarkably pebbly or puckered appearance. Crepe weaves can be drawn in several ways, but the most common methods are given below.
Bedford Cord Weave:
This is a special class of weave that forms longitudinal warp lines in fabric with fine sunken lines in between. This fabric is used in suiting for ornamental purposes. The method to construct this weave is simple. The repeat of the weave is calculated by multiplying the cord ends by two. The resultant value will be the total number of ends of the weave repeat. The pick repeat is four for this weave. The weave repeat (warp ends) is divided into two halves to construct it. The first and last ends of both the halves are treated as cutting ends. Plain weave is inserted on these cutting ends. These plain ends behave as sunken ends in the Bedford cord.
Welts and Pique:
A pique weave consists of plain face fabric which is composed of a series of warp and weft threads along with a series of stitching threads. This weave is unique due to the formation of horizontal lines (weft wise). This weave requires two beams, one for the plain weave threads and the other for stitching ends. The word “welt” is concerned to the pique construction, when the indentations make deep or hollow (sunken) lines appear in the cloth.
Mock Leno Weave:
This weave is much similar to a gauze-type fabric. The weave is constructed in four quadrants. The first and third quadrants have symmetric weave, and the second and fourth quadrants have opposite weave to the symmetric weave. The perforated fabrics are made by this type of weave. This effect is achieved by reversing the symmetric unit of the weave in the alternate quadrants. So, these weaves are produced in sections that oppose each other. The fabric appearance can be improved or obscured by the system of denting that is employed in this weave. The tendency of threads to run together is counteracted if the last end of one group is passed through the same split as the first end of the next group. The design of mock leno weave is shown in Figure-13.
References:
Weave is the interlacing pattern warp and weft yarns, in order to produce a woven fabric. Weave structures is the design by which fabric is produced. Fabric are manufactured in wide varieties and design. The great variety of weaves found in the textiles of today are modifications of a few fundamental weaves invented in the earliest times. The basic weaves are plain, twill, and satin. All the others are derivatives of these basic weaves or their combination. In this article I will discuss about different types of basic weaves structures and their names.
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| Figure-1: Different basic weaves structures |
- Plain Weave
- Twill Weave
- Satin/Sateen
- Honey Comb Weave
- Huck a Back Weave
- Crepe Weave
- Bedford Cord Weave
- Welts and Pique
- Mock Leno Weave
Plain Weave:
Plain is the simplest weave, in which warp and weft threads interlace in alternate manner (as shown in Figure-2), giving maximum number of interlacements. This maximum interlacement imparts firmness and stability to the structure. In trade, the special names like broadcloth, taffeta, shantung, poplin, calico, tabby, and alpaca are applied to plain weave. At least two ends and two picks are required to weave its basic unit. A minimum of two heald frames are required for this weave, but more than two (multiple of basic weave) heald frames can be used to weave this construction. It is used in cambric, muslin, blanket, canvas, dhothi, saree, shirting, suiting, etc.
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| Figure-2: Plain weave structure |
- Warp Rib
- Weft Rib
- Matt Weave
Warp ribs are a modified form of plain weave. It has 1/1 interlacements in the filling direction, which differs from the simple plain weaves. This modified interlacement results in the formation of cords, ridges, or texture across the warp direction of the fabric. These cords or ridges are formed due to the grouping of the filling yarns. The repeat of warp rib is always on two warp yarns. The first warp yarn follows the formula, while the second warp yarn is in the opposite direction of the first one. It requires two heald frames at least, but multiple of these can also be employed. The number of weft yarns in a repeat unit of this weave is equal to the sum of the digits in formula of warp rib. For example, 2/2 warp rib requires 2 warp yarns and 4 weft yarns. Design of the above-stated warp rib is shown in Figure-3. Warp rib is also known as ottoman.
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| Figure-3: Warp rib (2/2). |
- Regular Warp Rib
- Irregular Warp Rib
Weft ribs are another modified form of plain weaves. It has 1/1 interlacements in the warp direction, which differs from the simple plain weaves. This modified interlacement results in the formation of cords, ridges, or texture across the weft direction of the fabric. These cords or ridges are formed due to the grouping of the warp yarns. The repeat of weft rib is always on two weft yarns. The first weft yarn follows the formula, while the second weft yarn is in the opposite direction of the first one. It requires two heald frames at least, but multiple of these can also be employed. The number of warp yarns in a repeat unit of this weave is equal to the sum of the digits in formula of warp rib. For example, 2/2 weft rib requires 2 weft yarns and 4 warp yarns. Design of the above-stated warp rib is shown in Figure-4. Weft rib is also known as half panama.
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| Figure-4: Weft rib (2/2). |
- Regular Weft Rib
- Irregular Weft Rib
This type of weave is constructed by extending the plain weave in warp and weft directions at the same time so that two or more threads work alike in both directions. In this weave, the same size of squares appear on both sides of the fabric showing the same number of warp and weft yarns on front and back of the fabric. Matt weave is also commercially known as basket, hopsack, or full panama. This weave requires a minimum of two heald frames. Design of the 2/2 matt weave is shown in Figure-5. The matt weaves can be extended further to give more prominence but restricted due to loose structure and modified in several ways. In matt weave, the warp ends that work alike tends to twist around each other. To avoid this twisting of the yarns, warp ends that work alike are drawn from different slits of the reed.
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| Figure-5: Matt weave (2/2). |
- Regular Matt Weave
- Irregular Matt Weave
- Fancy Matt Weave
Twill weave is another basic weave which is well known for its diagonal line formation in the fabric due to its interlacing pattern. This weave and its derivatives are used for the ornamental purposes. Twill has closer setting of yarns due to less interlacement imparting greater weight and good drape as compared to the plain weave. In simple twill, the outward and upward movement of the interlacing pattern is always one that imparts a diagonal line to this design. The direction of the propagation of twill line classifies twill into right-hand or left-hand twill. Twill weaves find a wide range of application such as drill cloth, khakhi uniforms, denim cloth, blankets, shirtings, hangings and soft furnishings.
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| Figure-6: Twill weave |
- Warp faced twill
- Weft faced twill
- Balanced twill
- Pointed Twill
- Horizontal Pointed Twill
- Vertical Pointed Twill
- Herringbone Twill
- Horizontal Herringbone Twill
- Vertical Herringbone Twill
- Skip Twill
- Diamond Weave
- Pointed Twill Base Diamond
- Herringbone Twill Base Diamond
- Combination Twill
- Combined Twill
- Broken Twill
- Elongated Twill
- Transposed Twill
Satin/sateen is a basic weave that does not have any regular pattern like twill. The surface of the fabric is either warp or weft faced. Satin is warp faced, which means that all the surface of the fabric will show the warp threads except for the one thread interlacement with other series of yarn. If it is weft faced, then it will be known as sateen, which means that fabric surface will show the weft threads mostly. The unique in this weave is the single interlacement of warp thread and weft thread in a single repeating unit. These weaves have the least interlacement points among the basic weaves. Due to this reason, it gives the surface of fabric more luster and smoothness. Along with these properties, more close packing of the threads is possible, which gives the maximum achievable cover factor in this weave. With this weave it is possible to use a cotton warp and silk filling, having most of the silk appear on the surface of the fabric.
 |
| Figure-7: Satin weave |
This name is given to this weave due to its honey bee web-like structure. It makes ridges and hollow structures which finally give a cell-like appearance. In this weave, both warp and weft threads move freely on both sides, which coupled with rough structure. The fabric made by this weave has longer float all over the fabric. Due to this reason, it is radially absorbent of moisture. This property made these weaves useful for towels, bed covers, and quilts. This weave is further divided into three types which are explained below. Most commonly, these weaves are constructed on repeats which are multiple of four in ends and picks.
 |
| Figure-8: Honeycomb weave |
- Single-Ridge Honey Comb
- Double-Ridge Honey Comb
- Brighton Honey Comb
This weave is largely used for cotton towel and linen cloth. It has longer floats in two quadrants, which make them more moisture absorbent so employed in towels. This weave is combination of longer floats of symmetric weaves in two quadrants and plain weaves in the remaining two quadrants. Plain weave gives firmness to the structure, while longer float weave increases the absorbency of fabric, making it suitable for the above-stated purpose. Special draft is employed for this weave. The draft is arranged in such a way that odd ends are drawn in two front heald frames and the even threads are drawn from back two heald frames. The purpose of this special draft is to weave plain fabric without redrawing of beam. For this purpose, heald frame one and two are coupled together, and heald frames three and four are coupled together. Sometimes, longer float symmetric weaves are used in combination of plain weaves in huck a back weave, which is also termed as honey comb huck a back weaves. Examples of this weave is shown in Figure-9.
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| Figure-9: Huck a back weave |
Crepe weave refers to those weaves that do not have any specific pattern. These weaves may contain a little bit appearance of twills, but they do not have the prominence. They make small patterns or minute spots and seed-like appearance all over the fabric surface. These weaves may be used separately or in combination with other weaves. Crepe weaves are frequently employed in making the ground of the figured fabrics. In simple words, crepe weave is used to make a rough appearance. If we make crepe weaves with crepe yarns, this combination will give more remarkably pebbly or puckered appearance. Crepe weaves can be drawn in several ways, but the most common methods are given below.
- Sateen Method
- 1/4 Turn Method
- Reversing Method
- Super Imposed Method
- Plain Method
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| Figure-10: Crepe (sateen based), 7 end. |
This is a special class of weave that forms longitudinal warp lines in fabric with fine sunken lines in between. This fabric is used in suiting for ornamental purposes. The method to construct this weave is simple. The repeat of the weave is calculated by multiplying the cord ends by two. The resultant value will be the total number of ends of the weave repeat. The pick repeat is four for this weave. The weave repeat (warp ends) is divided into two halves to construct it. The first and last ends of both the halves are treated as cutting ends. Plain weave is inserted on these cutting ends. These plain ends behave as sunken ends in the Bedford cord.
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| Figure-11: Bedford cord weave, 10 threads cord with 2 waded ends |
A pique weave consists of plain face fabric which is composed of a series of warp and weft threads along with a series of stitching threads. This weave is unique due to the formation of horizontal lines (weft wise). This weave requires two beams, one for the plain weave threads and the other for stitching ends. The word “welt” is concerned to the pique construction, when the indentations make deep or hollow (sunken) lines appear in the cloth.
 |
| Figure-12: Welts and pique weave |
This weave is much similar to a gauze-type fabric. The weave is constructed in four quadrants. The first and third quadrants have symmetric weave, and the second and fourth quadrants have opposite weave to the symmetric weave. The perforated fabrics are made by this type of weave. This effect is achieved by reversing the symmetric unit of the weave in the alternate quadrants. So, these weaves are produced in sections that oppose each other. The fabric appearance can be improved or obscured by the system of denting that is employed in this weave. The tendency of threads to run together is counteracted if the last end of one group is passed through the same split as the first end of the next group. The design of mock leno weave is shown in Figure-13.
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| Figure-14: Mock leno weave |
- Structural Textile Design: Interlacing and Interlooping by Yasir Nawab, Syed Talha Ali Hamdani, & Khubab Shaker
- http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2012/07/basic-woven-fabric-structure-plain.html
- https://www.slideshare.net
