Cotton Fibers – the king of fibers

Cotton Fibers – the king of fibers

Posted by Default on January 25, 2019 in

Cellulose, seed fiber from the nature

Cotton is a soft staple fibre that grown in a form known as a boll around the seeds of the cotton plant, a shrub native to tropical and subtropical regions.

Cotton

Cotton today is the most used textile fiber in the world. Its current market share is 56 percent for all fibers used for apparel and home furnishings and sold in the U.S. Another contribution is attributed to nonwoven textiles and personal care items. The earliest evidence of using cotton is from India and the date assigned to this fabric is 3000 B.C. There were also excavations of cotton fabrics of comparable age in Southern America. Cotton cultivation first spread from India to Egypt, China, and the South Pacific.

Cotton is a soft, staple fiber that grows in a form known as a boll around the seeds of the cotton plant, a shrub native to tropical and subtropical regions around the world, including the Americas, India, and Africa. The fiber most often is spun into yarn or thread and used to make a soft, breathable textile, which is the most widely used natural-fiber cloth in clothing today. The English name derives from the Arabic (al) qutn قُطْن , which began to be used circa 1400.

Each cotton fiber is composed of concentric layers. The cuticle layer on the fiber itself is separable from the fiber and consists of wax and pectin materials.

Properties of Cotton

Cotton is a soft fiber that grows around the seeds of the cotton plant. Cotton fiber grows in the seed pod or boll of the cotton plant. Each fiber is a single elongated cell that is flat twisted and ribbon-like with a wide inner hollow (lumen).

• 90% cellulose, 6% moisture and the remainder fats and impurities.
• The outer surface is covered with a protective wax-like coating which gives fiber an adhesive quality.

Cotton is a natural fiber that is grown in countries around the world. It is a crop that requires adequate moisture and heat to mature and produce quality fibers. Cotton growing tends to be in warmer climates. Cotton is a true commodity in the world markets and supply and demand truly affect prices of raw cotton.

Cotton fibers are mainly made up of cellulose. Cellulose does not form unless temperatures are over 70 °F (21 °C). The cotton fibers are attached to the seeds inside the boll of the plant. There are usually six or seven seeds in a boll and up to 20,000 fibers attached to each seed. The length of these fibers (also called staples) is the main determining factor in the quality of the cotton. In general, the longer the staple grows the higher the quality of the cotton. Staple lengths are divided into short, medium, and long (and extra long, in some cases):

• Short staple cotton is between 3/8” to 15/16” (.95cm to 2.4cm) in length
• Medium staple cotton is between 1” to 1-1/8” (2.54cm to 2.86cm) in length
• Long staple cotton is between 1-3/16” to 2-1/2” (3cm to 6.35cm) in length

Properties of Cotton Products

• Comfortable – there are no surface characteristics of cotton that make it irritating to human skin. Cotton feels good against skin; it has a soft hand.
• Hydrophilic – cotton has a natural affinity for water – it attracts moisture away from your body.
• Moisture passes freely through cotton – aiding in evaporation and cooling
• Good Heat Conductivity – Cotton allows heat to dissipate making it a wonderful fiber to maintain a comfortable sleeping temperature.
• Strong and abrasion resistance
• The unfavorable attributes of cotton include its lack of resiliency (cotton tends to wrinkle) and its
  lack of luster (colors are usually dull).

Properties of Cotton Fiber

• It has 8% moisture regain
• The cellulose is arranged in a way that gives cotton unique properties of strength, durability, and absorbency
• It is fresh, crisp, comfortable, absorbent, flexible, has no pilling problems and has good resistance to alkalis
• It has poor wrinkle resistance, shrinkage, poor acid resistance, less abrasion resistance, susceptible to damage by moths and mildew, needs lots of maintenance and stains are difficult to remove
• Its fiber length ranges from ½ inches to 2inches
• It has 10%increase in strength when wet.
• It has a flat twisted tube shape

Long Staple Cotton

In general, long staple cotton is needed to spin the yarns needed in the weaving of the finer down proof cotton fabrics.

Long staple cotton is considered to be finer quality because they can be spun into finer yarns and those finer yarns can be woven into softer, smoother, stronger, and more lustrous fabrics. Long staple cotton makes stronger yarns, especially in fine yarns, as there are fewer fibers in a given length of yarn and the longer fibers provide more points of contact between the fibers when they are twisted together in the spinning process.

Common areas that grow long staple cotton in the world would be Egypt, Sudan, the United States (Pima cotton grown in the west and southwest are long staple cotton), and Western China. The two most widely known long-staple cottons are Egyptian cotton and Pima cotton. Pima cotton is grown mainly in the United States, but also in Peru, Israel, and Australia.

The fibers are sent to a textile mill where carding machines turn the fibers into cotton yarn. The yarns are woven into cloth that is comfortable and easy to wash but does wrinkle easily. Cotton fabric will shrink about 3% when washed unless pre-treated to resist shrinking.

Cotton is prized for its comfort, easy care, and affordability and is ideal for clothing, bedding, towels, and furnishings.

Harvesting

Cotton was once harvested by hand, often by slave labor or tenant farmers. As recently as 1965, over a fourth of the U.S. cotton crop was picked by hand. Today, harvesting cotton is highly mechanized.

Harvesting machines called strippers and pickers efficiently remove the cotton while leaving the plants undisturbed. Spindle harvester, also called a picker, has drums with spindles that pull the cotton from the boll in one or two rows at a time. Even a one-row mechanical picker can do the work formerly done by 40 hand pickers.

In stripper harvesting, the stripper moves along rows of plants, passing them between revolving rollers or brushes that pull off the cotton. Strippers also pull twigs and leaves with the cotton.

Cotton gins separate the fibers, called lint, from the seeds. After ginning, the cotton goes to the bale press that packs it into 480-pound bales about the size of a large refrigerator.

Classing Cotton

Cotton buyers judge cotton on the basis of samples cut from the bales. Skilled cotton classers grade or “class” the cotton according to standards established by the US Department of Agriculture such as cleanliness, the degree of whiteness, length of the fiber, and fiber strength.

The classes pull a sample. They discard most of the cotton until just a pinch of well-aligned fibers remains. They measure the length of the fibers, referred to as staple fibers. Longer staple fibers are higher-grade cotton and are sold at higher prices. Long staples range from 1.1 inches to 1.4 inches long.

Cotton Ginning

From the field, seed cotton moves to nearby gins for separation of lint and seed. The cotton first goes through dryers to reduce moisture content and then through cleaning equipment to remove foreign matter. These operations facilitate processing and improve fiber quality. The cotton is then air conveyed to gin stands where revolving circular saws pull the lint through closely spaced ribs that prevent the seed from passing through. The lint is removed from the saw teeth by air blasts or rotating brushes and then compressed into bales weighing approximately 500 pounds. Cotton is then moved to a warehouse for storage until it is shipped to a textile mill for use.

A typical gin will process about 12 bales per hour, while some of today’s more modern gins may process as many as 60 bales an hour.

Ginning Process Flowchart

Inside the Cotton Gin – Video

Continue Reading

Importance of shed geometry on operational performance of Weaving machines

Importance of shed geometry on operational performance of Weaving machines

Posted by Default on January 25, 2019 in

Purpose: To reduce end breaks during the running of weaving machines and improve productivity/ quality of cloth woven.

The effect of shed geometry has been studied on a loom under the combination of weaving conditions that give the best cover and least stress on loom and warp yarns determined.

Shedding Mechanisms

All weaving machines control the warp yarns to create a shed. This can be accomplished with the following systems:

• Crank shedding
• Cam shedding or tappet shedding
• Dobby shedding
• Jacquard shedding

Crank, cam and dobby mechanisms control the harnesses which lift the shafts. Jacquard machines control the individual warp yarns. Each system is outlined below:

1. Crank Shedding

   Crank shedding mechanisms are simple and relatively cheap to use. However, it can only be used for plain weave fabric constructions. In this system, the harnesses are controlled by the crankshaft of the weaving machine. For each crankshaft revolution, a wheel is rotated half a turn, which changes the harness position.  This system is only used in air-jet and water jet machines where high speed is achieved.

2. Cam Shedding

   Cam shedding is also simple and inexpensive. A cam is a disk which has grooved or conjugated edges which correspond to the lifting plan. The lifting plan controls which harnesses are lifted. The disadvantage of cam shedding is that when the woven design has to be changed the cams have to be rearranged to suit the new design. Pattern design is also limited due to the number of harnesses the cams can control.

3. Dobby Shedding

   Dobby shedding is more complex than crank and cam systems. The main advantage of dobby looms is that more intricate designs can be produced. Older dobby looms were operated by wooden lags with pegs, which rotated around a roller above the loom. The pegs in the lags correspond to the lifting plan, which controls which harnesses are lifted.  Punched paper or plastic pattern cards can also be used. Recently modern dobby looms are controlled via an electronic system. The disadvantage of dobby systems is that faults are more likely to occur due to their complexity.

4. Jacquard Shedding

   In jacquard weaving, a device called a ‘jacquard’ selects and lifts the warp yarns individually.  This type of machine is used for larger more detailed patterns, where all or most of the yarns in a repeat, move independently. There are single or double lift machines which use either mechanical or electronic systems, using CAD to control the harness lifting and lowering. Modern jacquards are capable of handling over 1200 harness cords which control the lifting and lowering of the warp yarns.

Weft Insertion Methods

Modern automatic looms do not require a shuttle to carry the weft yarn across the shed.  Instead, the weft yarn is inserted by either one of the following methods:

1. Rapier

   A shuttleless weaving loom in which the filling yarn is carried through the shed of warp yarns by fingerlike carriers called rapiers. There are two types of rapiers.
   1. A single long rapier that reaches across the loom’s width to carry the filling to the other side.
   2. Two small rapiers, one on each side. One rapier carries the filling yarn halfway through the shed, where it is met by the other rapier, which carries the filling the rest of the way across the loom. The insertion rate of picks can be up to 1000 m min-1.

2. Projectile

   Projectile machines carry yarn through the shed using a small bullet shaped object known as a ‘projectile’. The yarn must be presented to the projectile in order for it to grip this. This process can occur in the following ways:
   1. A single projectile is fired from each side of the machine alternately and requires a bilateral yarn supply.
   2. A yarn supply from one side of the machine is presented to the projectile. It carries the weft yarn across the machine and is then transported back to the other side by a conveyor chain. Several projectiles are in use at the same time to enable rapid pick insertion. Pick insertion rate can be up to 1300m min-1.

3. Air jet

   In air-jet weaving machines, the filling yarn is inserted pneumatically. It is carried through the shed by compressed air flow supplied from the main nozzle and relay nozzles. This is the fastest type of weaving enabling pick insertion of 3000 m min-1.

4. Waterjet

   Water jet weaving is the same principle as air jet weaving, water is used instead of air and a similar speed is achieved. One disadvantage is that only hydrophobic yarns can be used.

5. Multiphase

   All of the above methods are classed as single-phase weaving, whereby the weft yarn is laid across the full width of the warp yarns and beat-up takes place. Multiphase weaving involves several phases of the weaving taking place at the same time so that several picks can be inserted simultaneously. The shedding mechanisms of the weaving affect this process:
   1. Wave shed machines carry the yarn in either straight or circular paths. Parts of the warp are in different stages of the weaving cycle at any one moment. It is possible for a series of weft carriers to move along in successive sheds in the same plane.
   2. In parallel shed machines numerous sheds are formed simultaneously. Each shed extends across the full width of the warp and moves in the warp direction.

Factors to be considered before concluding shed setting geometry details which affect end breaks on weaving machine.

To create shed geometry machine settings, we need to have complete knowledge and understanding of

1. Fabric cover factor: Cover factor is a number that indicates the extent to which the area of a fabric is covered by one set of threads. For any woven fabric, there are two cover factors: a warp cover factor and a weft cover factor.
   

   Cloth Cover Factor

   1. Warp cover factor =  
   2. Weft cover factor =  
   3. Cloth cover factor = 
   Total fabric cover factor= K1 +k2 – k1 k2/28. Where the k1= number of warp threads per inch/square root of warp count and K2 is a number of weft threads per inch/square root of weft count.
   
   
2. Yarn properties—material/ blends, elongation percentage, yarn imperfections, single thread strength etc.

   Parameters	Ring yarn	Rotor Yarn	Air-jet	Friction
   Count range	1-100s Ne	2-40s Ne	20-60s Ne	1-40s Ne
   Production speed	2-25 mpm	100-200 mpm	150-200 mpm	150-200 mpm
   Strength	100%	75-85%	60-85%	60-75%
   Elongation at break	100%		100%
   U %	D (maximum)	C	A (lowest)	B
   Bulk	100%	100-125%	75-100%	100-140%
   Power consumption	D (maximum)	C	A	B
   Yarn Tension	D (maximum)	A	B	C

3. Yarn winding/warping —winding details/ end breakage studies
4. Sizing ingredients applied on yarn: Textile warp sizing, also known as tape sizing, of the Warp yarns, are subjected during weaving to several types of actions i.e. cyclic strain, flexing, abrasion at various loom parts and inter yarn friction. breakage of the yarn and thus production stops on the weaving machine. With sizing, the strength — abrasion resistance — of the yarn will improve and the hairiness of yarn will decrease.

The degree of improvement of strength depends on adhesion force between fiber and size, size penetration as well as encapsulation of yarn. Different types of water-soluble polymers called textile sizing agents/chemicals such as modified starch, polyvinyl alcohol (PVA), carboxymethyl cellulose (CMC), acrylates are used to protect the yarn. Also, the wax is added to reduce the abrasiveness of the warp yarns. The type of yarn material, the thickness of the yarn, ends per inch, type of weaving machinery will determine the sizing recipe.

The Following procedure to be followed before appropriate settings are established

This procedure needs a lot of weaving skill and experience of the technical team who conducts this survey.

Main shed parameters are as follows: • L 1: length of the front shed • L2: length of the back shed • H : shed height When the healds are levelled, the path taken by the warp is the shortest and is called warp line. However, as the healds move away from the warp line, the warp takes a longer path. Thus, when warp yarns move up and down from warp line the warp yarn has to be compensated either by the regulation of the yarn delivery system or by the extensibility of the warp. If the length of the back shade increases, then yarn extension is reduced and this is preferred for weaving delicate yarns like silk. However, shorter back shed creates clearer shed and it is preferred for weaving coarser and hairy yarns. It is very important to understand the factors which influence the degree of yarn extension during the shed formation. A simplified mathematical model has been presented to relate the warp strain with the shed parameters.

 

  

Effect of Shed Timing and Backrest Position

The early shedding coupled with the raised position of the backrest results in higher pick density in the woven fabric. The figure shows the normal and raised position of the backrest. When the backrest is at a normal position, the top and bottom sheds are symmetrical with respect to the Warp line when the shed is leveled. In this case, the length of two shed lines is equal which signifies that the tension in both the sheds (top and bottom) is equal. However, when the backrest is raised from its normal position, the length of shed lines become unequal. This becomes clearly visible from the fact that the length of the top shed line is smaller than the bottom shed line. Thus, the tension in the top shed line will be lower than that of bottom shed line.

warp line with normal and raised backrest positions

In Fig. 7-a and 7-b it is illustrated that the distance between backrest roller and dropper line is kept constant but the distance between dropper line and heald frame changes. In this case when the backrest roller is moved backward keeping the dropper depth unaffected than the dropper position increases (Fig. 7-a & Fig. 7-b). So in the case of lower backrest position (like in Fig. 7-a), the impact of dropper will be lower due to the sagging of warp. But in the case of higher backrest position (like in Fig. 7-b), the influence of dropper will be more so as the sagging of warp. In this scenario, it necessitates more tension to maintain the proper level of the shed.

Effect of changing backrest height  For analyzing the effect of backrest position some data have been collected from different backrest height but same in backrest position, dropper position, dropper height etc. The data is summarized as follow: – Here (-)ve sign indicates the downward position and (+) ve sign indicates the upward position of the backrest

Effect of backrest height on warp tension

From the Table 3, it is seen that the downward position of backrest height will require low tension but the upward position of backrest roller will require high tension. (Shown in Fig.: 8) In the case of downward backrest height, the effect of drop wire weight on warp yarn will be low. So the required tension will also be low. But when the backrest is up warded then the effect of drop wire weight will be high so more tension will be needed to straighten the warp thread.

But when the backrest is up warded then the effect of drop wire weight will be high so more tension will be needed to straighten the warp thread

Effect of Changing Backrest Roller Backrest position creates very interesting and peculiar effect on warp tension, it is a surprising thing that only backrest position does not create any impact on warp tension but jointly with dropper position from backrest it affects the warp tension at a great scale.

The effect of Backrest position is influenced by the position of the dropper line. When the dropper line keeps its position constant (i,e both the backrest and dropper line is moved) then the backward position of the backrest roller will reduce the required tension. The reason behind this is, once the backrest is moved backward keeping the dropper position constant then the dropper depth increases which ultimately bring the dropper line near to the backrest in comparison with the dropper depth hence the impact of dropper weight will little as a result low tension will be required.

Conclusion The effect of backrest roller on warp tension and fabric quality cannot be ignored in anyways. From this study, it is known that different warp tension is observed due to different settings of backrest and dropper. The reason behind this behavior is different. Although modern loom has offered accurate tension by electronic means it is needed to readjust the tension when any settings mentioned in this paper is changed. This study let us know about the amount of tension readjustment while changing any settings related to the backrest. Improper tension is a major cause of faults like the starting mark. It is often seen in the factory that the starting mark appears in the loom frequently especially after running some days. For amending the starting mark, it is needed to readjust tension. If the starting mark is caused due to high tension then the tension should be minimized either by lowering the backrest or backward the drop wire. However, investigating the effect of tension on starting marks need higher level research using high technology like digital image processing technique.

 

Conclusions

Shed timing and shed geometry /unbalancing/yarn tension have an effect on the operational performance of the cloth-making process and consequently the fabric cover. There is a combination of loom settings related to the cloth shed geometry that can lead to a high performance on production efficiency and produce high-quality fabrics and also the best fabric cover can be obtained at ‘highest’ level of shed unbalance and ‘normal’ shed timing. There are certain interactions between the cloth making processes and the loom settings. Both the best cover and minimum BUF are obtainable at a high level of shed unbalance and ‘normal’ shed timing. However, this ideal setting may vary slightly for different looms, especially for high-speed modern looms in which the beat-up process occurs in a smaller fraction of loom cycle than on shuttle looms.

The effect of shed geometry has been studied on a loom under the combination of weaving conditions that give the best cover and least stress on loom and warp yarns determined. It is observed that the shed unbalancing shows improvement in the fabric cover. Shed timing, on the other hand, shows variable responses with the so-called ‘normal’ shed timing, resulting in a fabric of lowest reediness and highest pick density. The compromised setting for best fabric cover and least stress on the loom was observed at the high level of shed unbalancing and normal shed timing. All these factors are vital and critical to reducing end breaks on weaving machines and needs skill, knowledge and technical understanding of weaving operations.

Continue Reading

Elastomeric Fibers

Elastomeric Fibers

Posted by Default on January 25, 2019 in

Fibres with elastic capability

Elastomeric fibers are those fibers that possess extremely high elongations at break and that recover fully and rapidly from high elongations up to their breaking point. The fibers are all used in specialized applications where high elasticity is necessary within the textile structure. An Elastomer is a polymer with the physical property of elasticity. The elastomer is a term derived from elastic polymer, which is often used interchangeably with the term rubber.

Elastomeric Fibers

Elastomeric fibers are those fibers that possess extremely high elongations  (400%-8001) at the break and that recover fully and rapidly from high elongations up to their breaking point.

Elastomeric fibers include the crosslinked natural and synthetic rubbers, spandex fibers (segmented polyurethanes), anidex fibers (crosslinked polyacrylates) and the side-by-side biconstituent fiber of nylon and spandex (Monvelle). The fibers are all used in specialized applications where high elasticity is necessary within the textile structure.

RUBBER

Rubber fibers from natural sources have been known for over 100 years. Natural rubber in commerce is derived from coagulation of Hevea brasiliensis latex and is primarily -polyisoprene, a diene polymer.

Rubber fibers exhibit excellent elastic properties but are sensitive to chemical attack, thereby limiting their usefulness.

Rubber fibers are manufactured by several companies as rubber fiber or under trade names such as Buthane, Contro, Hi-Flex, Lactron, Lastex, and Laton. Rubber fibers show good elastomeric properties and reasonable aesthetic properties particularly as the core of a textile yarn structure.

SPANDEX

https://www.flickr.com/photos/81421369@N04/14448515208

Spandex fibers are elastomeric fibers that are >85% segmented polyurethane formed through the reaction of a diisocyanate with polyethers or polyesters and subsequent crosslinking of polyurethane units.

The spandex fibers resemble rubber in both stretch and recovery properties but are far superior to rubber in their resistance to sunlight, heat, abrasion, oxidation, oils, and chemicals. They find the widest use of any of the elastomeric fibers.

Spandex is widely used and sold as an elastomeric fiber under that designation or under such trade names as Cleerspan, Glospan, Lycra, or Numa. Spandex possesses excellent elastomeric properties and acceptable aesthetics for use in constructions requiring such a fiber. Spandex is dull, but luster may be improved with brighteners.

Anidex

Anidex fibers are defined as fibers containing polymers that are at least 50%of one or more polymerized acrylate esters. Anidex fibers are formed through emulsion copolymerization of acrylate esters with reactive cross-linkable comonomers such as -methylolacrylamide.

Anidex fibers apparently did not have sufficient differences in properties to become an economic success and are no longer being produced.

Nylon-Spandex Biconstituent Fiber

An inherent problem with elastomeric fibers is their low strength and limited abrasion resistance. A new biconstituent elastomeric fiber-Monvelle has been introduced to answer these problems. The fiber is a side-by-side bicomponent fiber containing nylon and spandex. The fiber is melt spun by special spinnerets to form the fiber.

Continue Reading

Alpaca Fiber and its Properties

Alpaca Fiber and its Properties

Posted by Default on January 25, 2019 in

Natural Hair Fiber

Alpaca are woolly mammals related to camels and llamas. This herding animalslive in the western South Americain grasslands and scrub at altitudes from 12,800to 15,000 feet. Young alpaca are called crias.Alpacas have a lifespan of about 15 – 20+ years. Some alpacas make a humming sound; whining, grumbling, clucking, and other assorted sounds are used by alpacas to communicate. Spitting is used by alpacas, probably as a sign of dominance, fear, or warning.

Alpacas are a social herd animal and should be kept with others of their kind. They are gentle, inquisitive, intelligent, and observant animals. Because they are a prey animal, alpacas are very cautious and become nervous if they feel threatened. Warning from the animal includes sharp noisy inhalations, ears pulled back, twisting their head and neck back to the perceived threat, screaming, “spitting,” and kicking. While “spitting” is commonly associated with this species, it is usually only a projectile of air and little (if any) saliva. When spitting, they can bring up acidic stomach contents to spit/project. This behavior is usually reserved for other animals only.

Alpacas are smaller than llamas, which are typically one-two feet taller and proportionally bigger than the alpaca. Llamas have banana-shaped ears and long tails versus the straight ears and stubby tails of the alpaca. A mature animal weighs 110-175 pounds and is approximately three feet (34-38 inches) at the withers. Alpaca’s and llamas can, however, successfully cross-breed resulting in what is called a huarizo. The resulting huarizo offspring have a unique fleece, are gentile, and suitable for pets.

Once alpacas know their handlers and/or owners they allow their backs and necks to be touched and usually anywhere on their bodies except feet and legs. Alpacas “hum” their communications with one another by varying inflections in their voices. Dominant males tend to fight each other, so it is best not to keep too many together in a herd.

Alpacas are valued only for their fiber as they grow a hair-like fleece fiber, not the woolen fibers of the sheep species. Alpaca fiber is used primarily for blankets, sweaters, hats, gloves, scarves, socks, coats, textiles, and ponchos. The Alpaca is classified in eight basic colors including natural white, natural light fawn, natural fawn, natural light grey, natural rose grey, naturally dark brown, and black. There are about 22 recognized colors of the alpaca.

There are two breeds of alpaca: the huacaya, considered the more common breed with fewer than 5,000,000 in the world today and 103,000 registered in the U.S., and the Suri, a rare breed of alpaca representing less than 6% of the world population and 18% of the U.S. population. Huacayas are known for their soft, crimpy fiber, similar to a sheep fleece, while suris are distinguished by their long, lustrous and slick locks that lie parallel to the body, similar to an angora goat. Both breeds produce over 22 different colors of fleece, making them one of the most versatile fiber species in the world. Alpacas generally weigh 150 to 200 pounds and stand about 36″ tall at the withers.

There are two types of alpacas: the Huacaya and Suri, both have fleece that is soft and luxurious and usable for textiles.

• Most alpaca fleece is from Huacaya, which have a shorter, denser, fuzzy, tight-crimp fleece, and the fiber is similar to soft Merino sheep (95% of all alpaca fleece).
• Suri alpacas have a mop-like, straight, long fleece that hangs down off their back and stomach, and the fiber is similar to fine Angora.

Vital Properties of Alpaca

Criteria	Details
Size	A mature alpaca weighs 110-170 pounds and is 34-38 inches tall at the top of the front shoulders (the withers). Crias weigh 15-19 pounds at birth.
Lifespan	15-25 years, with a few living to 30 years of age.
The reproductive lifespan of female	12-14 years; from 3-17 years of age approximately.
The reproductive lifespan of herdsire	10-12 years; from 4-16 years of age approximately. Prime years 5-10 years of age.
Gestation period	11 months. Healthy females can produce offspring at an average rate of one cria each year.
A number of crias born per gestation	One; multiple births are extremely rare.
Colors	There are more than 22 natural shades produced from the alpaca fleece ranging from white to black that is recognized and accepted by The Alpaca Registry.
Scientific classification	Order: Artiodactyla Sub-order: tylopods camelids Family: Camelidae New World name: Lama pacos alpaca
The growth rate of coat each year	5-10 inches.
The weight of fleece	From mature individual each year-one to eight pounds with a few yielding up to ten pounds each year.
Countries of Origin	Peru, Bolivia, and Chile; first imported into the United States in 1983.
Population	Approximately three million worldwide, with 98 percent still living in Peru, Bolivia, and Chile. Roughly 90 percent of all alpacas are huacaya and ten percent are suri. These same percentages apply to the alpacas currently in the United States.

Continue Reading

Fiber from Musk Ox

Fiber from Musk Ox

Posted by Default on January 25, 2019 in

Natural Hair Fiber

The musk ox, also known as Ovibos moschatus, is an ancient species of arctic mammal currently found in remote areas of the far north, including Greenland, Alaska, Canada and Siberia. During the Pleistocene, musk ox wandered across the Bering Land Bridge to populate North America with the likes of the woolly mammoth, saber-toothed cat, and giant ground sloth. They provide us with Qiviut fiber.

Qiviut is very rare and one of the finest fibers in the world. It compares favorably with Cashmere and Vicuna. Qiviut has no barbs and does not scratch like wool. Qiviut does not shrink like most wools because it is a hair rather than a wool. The fine Qiviut fiber has good tensile strength but does not hold up well under friction.

The raw musk-ox hair contains about 8% fat and possibly yield in the clean material.

the affinity to wool dyestuffs is equal to any other wool. The brightness of the shades is limited because of the natural gray of the wool. Through bleaching, this natural color can be lightened to a very light tan, but not entirely removed. The fiber is more sensitive to chemicals, alkalies, and acids than wool due to the high fineness.

In the wild, this fiber falls to the ground as it is shed, and is quickly destroyed by the harsh forces of nature. The domestic animals are combed, which makes it possible to harvest the fiber at its best.

Musk Oxen

The musk oxen are large animals that look a lot like bison or buffalos, but are significantly smaller than cows and provide wool like sheep. Its long, brown fur hangs almost to its feet. It is peaceful animals that only eat plants and are full-grown at the age of six.

Musk oxen are one of the oldest species of mammals still living today. About one million years ago the ancestors of these bovines roamed the steppes of Northern Asia, along with the mammoth. They have acclimatized the barren arctic deserts with its extreme cold and food with low nutritive value.

Males (bulls) typically stand 4½ to 5 feet at the shoulder and can weigh up to 800 pounds. Females (cows) are much smaller, averaging approximately 4 feet in height and weighing up to 500 pounds.

The stocky musk ox has a cold-resistant, dark brown or black fur. Its coat contains thick guard hairs that nearly touch the ground and protect a very dense, wooly inner layer called qiviut (pronounced kiv-ee-ute), which sheds in the spring.

The male has thick horns that almost meet on top of its head in what is called a “boss.” The horns curve down around his face and out at the ends. The female has considerably smaller horns, without a boss. Instead, the top of her head is covered with whitish hair.

In the middle of the 18. century musk oxen were extinct in North America and only lived in  Greenland. Species from Greenland were moved to Canada, and today they live wild in Canada and are farm-raised in Alaska, Canada, and Montana. There are experiments at certain farms with a growth hormone, methionine, which should make the wool longer

In Greenland the Musk ox lives as it has always done, in the wild, forming small herds in the arctic desert land. It is fully grown at the age of 6 and there is strict hunting quota to ensure the population.

The musk ox sheds its fleece once a year, typically in spring, and grows a new layer each fall. It usually bears only one calf every two years. The fleece yield is five to seven pounds per musk ox, which is cleaned and de-haired.

In Greenland, some Inuit collect the wool from shrubs and rocks, but that wool is used only in the family. Every year a number of animals are hunted by local hunters, the meat sold in the local market. The hides are now sold to my supplier, the wool is cleaned and dehaired, sent to England to be cleaned again, and finally shipped til Denmark to be spun – and become the yarn I sell.

Life Span/Social Structure

Cows may live more than 20 years, but the average lifespan is much less. On average, bulls die at a younger age than cows because of the increased risks of injury during fights over females.

Social by nature, muskoxen live in medium-sized groups of 10 to 20 individuals during the winter. During the summer, a dominant bull drives out the other males, forming a harem.

Bulls fight for dominance with threats, loud bellows, and ferocious head-butting during the breeding season, which occurs late summer. Two males will engage in a ritualized display designed to intimidate each other, including pawing at the ground, walking stiff-legged, and aggressively swinging their massive horns. Following the displays, the bulls will face-off and back up 100 feet or so before charging together at speeds close to 35 miles per hour. The head smashing may continue for up to a dozen times before one bull quits and submits to the other.

Gestation lasts eight to nine months, and a single calf is born late spring or early summer. Twins occur but are extremely rare.

When threatened, muskoxen form a defensive formation around their young.

They will first run to a higher location, then turn and stand shoulder-to-shoulder in a circle facing their enemies. With their heads lowered, they form an impenetrable wall.

The Arctic wolf is the muskox’s only serious predator.

Musk Ox – Properties

1. Classification

   The musk ox is related to other bovines like antelopes and cattle but is more closely related to the goats and
   sheep (subfamily Caprinae).
   • Class: Mammalia
   • Order: Artiodactyla
   • Family: Bovidae
   • Genus: Ovibu
   • Species: moschatus

2. Distribution

   A circumpolar species found in the Arctic tundra of North America from Alaska to Greenland and most arctic
   islands. There are small introduced populations in Russia, Scandinavia, and Svalbard.

3. Habitat

   Musk oxen live north of Timberline on the arctic tundra.

4. Physical Description

   • Musk oxen are about eight feet (2.5 m) long.
   • Males average 650 pounds (292 kg) but can weigh up to 900 pounds (405 kg); females are smaller
     averaging 400 pounds (180 kg).
   • They stand about four and a half feet (1.4 m) at the shoulder.
   • Their dark brown fur consists of a thick undercoat of wool covered by long, silky hair reaching a
     length of six inches (15 cm) along the back and up to three feet (90cm) at the neck and shoulders.
   • Both males and females have horns but males have thicker horns that meet at the top of the head
     forming a helmet-like “boss.” Females do not have a boss.

5. Diet

   What Does It Eat?
   • In the wild: Sedge and willow in summer, and sedges in winter. They scrape the snow aside to get
     down to vegetation.
   What Eats It?
   • Arctic wolves, grizzly bears, and humans prey on the musk ox.

6. Social Organization

   Musk oxen live in herds of 10-20 animals. In winter the herds consist of adult males, females and young. In the spring, the sexes separate into groups. During the mating season in July and August, males and females come together again and the males compete for dominance. The dominant male drives other adult males out of the herd. Non-breeding males may form all-male groups of three to 10 animals or may wander alone.
   After the mating season is over, mixed groups form again. In winter, musk oxen head to higher altitudes where winds blow the snow off the ground and they can reach vegetation.

7. Life Cycle

   Females are sexually mature at two to three years and males at about five years. Adult bulls butt heads to establish dominance and breeding rights. The dominant male drives other males out of the herd during the mating season. After a gestation of eight months, females give birth to a single calf weighing 15-25 pounds (7-11 kg). Newborn calves can stand within an hour. They nurse on their mother’s rich milk for up to a year but begin grazing when they are only a week old. Musk oxen live about 15 years in the wild and up to 24 years in captivity.

8. Adaptations

   Winter Warmth

   The dense, soft undercoat of the musk ox is shed every spring. This extremely warm wool coat that helps them survive in the harsh tundra environment is re-grown in August in preparation for the severe winter weather. Calves are born with much shorter guard hairs and no undercoat, although it starts to grow almost immediately. Complete adult coats are fully grown by three years of age.

   Non-Skid Traction

   The hoof of the musk ox splits to a spread and has a sharp edge that grips the ground to give them
   non-skid traction. When necessary they can run 15-20 miles per hour for a considerable distance
   across loose rocks and frozen ground without tiring. They are very nimble when climbing slopes.

   Musk Ox Maneuvers

   When faced with danger, the musk ox herd will run together, forming a crescent or circle with their
   flanks and rumps backed against each other and their formidable horns facing out. Calves are
   huddled into the center or hidden under the curtain of their mother’s long hair. From time to time,
   an individual will dash out of the circle to attack the enemy. With a single sweep of the pointed
   horns, a musk ox can cripple or kill a predator. This strategy works well with wolves or bears but
   the bunched herd makes an easy target for modern hunting weapons.

9. Conservation Connection

   Musk oxen were on the verge of extinction in the late 19th century due to the introduction of rifles and unregulated hunting. In 1917 the musk ox became a protected animal in Greenland and in 1926 Canada granted full protection to its herds. Musk oxen were reintroduced into Alaska in the 1930’s and have been reintroduced into Russia and Scandinavia. Musk oxen are thriving now with population estimates of 66,000-85,000 worldwide. Nearly 3,000 animals live in Alaska.

10. Factoids

    • No other hoofed animal lives as far north as the musk ox.
    • Eskimos called the musk ox “oomingmak” which means “bearded one”.
    • The wooly undercoat of musk ox hair is called qiviut (pronounced: Kiv-ee-Ute). It is the warmest of all natural fibers. It is eight times warmer than wool, very lightweight and as soft as cashmere. The undercoat is shed each year and Native Alaskans gather the wool and knit it into clothing. Birds also collect the wool to line their nests.
    • There are two commonly recognized subspecies of musk ox: Barren Ground musk ox and Greenland or ‘white face’ musk ox.
    • Inuit populations have utilized musk-oxen hide, meat, and horns for centuries.
    • The species common name refers to a strong odor that males emit from their facial glands during the breeding season.
    • Although musk oxen may resemble bison, they are closely related to goats and sheep.
    • Surprisingly agile, musk oxen also have impressive vision and hearing.
    • Qiviut (kiv-ee-ute), a layer of extremely fine under wool, is 8 times warmer than a sheep’s wool by weight and is hand-knitted by Alaskan natives into some of the most luxurious garments in the world. It can protect the animals from temperatures down to 100 degrees F below zero.

Continue Reading